Priming of a Dreadnought

So I had hoped to have a step by step painting tutorial on how I painted my Dreadnought. It turns out, I really don’t have that kind of patience this week, but I did manage some pictures, which I’m going to split into two posts. I use this same process for all my models, with a few added tips and tricks here and there. I’ll add them in later, but unless otherwise noted, this is my standard method of painting.

 This post is going to focus on the pre-color work.

Step 1: Assemble the Model

Not everyone would agree with this. I suppose if my Dreadnought was going to be scrutinized as a work of art, I would paint each piece seperately. It’s not. I didn’t. So, I found a pose that worked, and glued everything in place. (Except the base, which I will cover later.) Why do I prefer this? I don’t want to do a ton of detailing. I normally don’t have a lot of time, so if I can shave a few minutes here and there, this is good.

At this point, this is what it looks like:

Dreadnought Front No Arms

Step 2: Tape off any parts that you don’t want painted.

This is very important. No matter how good you think you are, TAPE OFF ANY PARTS YOU DON’T WANT PAINTED. I can’t count the times where I say to myself, “I just won’t paint that, and glue it later.” Then I go and paint it. Then I have to file the paint off, usually compromising some part of the model I wanted to keep whole. Any kind of tape works. Really. Save yourself the headache.

Step 3: Prime the Model

Okay. I’m not going to be a stickler for the paints sold at the GW Store. If you don’t want to use Citadel Colors, that’s fine. (I do, but you’re not me.) However, use thier primers. They don’t melt the plastic pieces. They stick to the pewter pieces. I’ve had these problems with other primers, and you may think your saving a few bucks, but when you have to clean the pieces, then go and get the Citadel Primers, you really haven’t. Take my word for it, they’re the best.

Now, as for the actual priming. There are three rules for priming any piece.

Rule 1: Multiple thin coats of primer are better than one thick coat.

Rule 2: There is no coat that is “too thin.”

Rule 3: Once satisfied, let the primer cure for 24 hours.

These are very important to follow. Rule 1 keeps you from losing detail in the piece, while rule 2 keeps you from spraying too close to the piece and wrecking Rule 1. Rule 3, however, saves you pain later in the painting. IF you paint the piece BEFORE the primer is dried THEN you will ruin your brushes and paintjob. Primer doesn’t come off as easily as the other paints. I’ve had a few conversations (read: arguments) with people as to how long is safe. I had one tell me an hour, one 45 minutes. I, in turn, told them I waited a full day. They looked like I had said something bad about thier mothers. I thought about doing so, then decided I had shocked them enough. But I do. Waiting 24 hours means that I have time to look at the piece and finalize how I want to paint it, and that I know the primer is completely dry. Wait a day. Think about how cool your piece(s) is(are) going to look. After 24 hours, just before painting, the Dreadnought looked like this:

Chaos Black primed Dreadnoght.

Next Post: Initial Coloring

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4 responses to “Priming of a Dreadnought

  1. Thanks for the reply. I’m assuming you didn’t see the finished product as you’re posting in the priming section, but that’s fine too. If you have a suggestion on how to make this better, I’m willing to listen.

  2. This does help but….. i was wondering if u could show me how to do the rusted effect on the guns (multi-melta in my case). Thanks for the article any way

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